top of page

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between the SAO and SA/DA triggers?


All my Single Action Only triggers have the shortest possible throw that allows the manual safety to work correctly, about 55% of the travel distance of the stock trigger for a G2C. However, they do remove the DA/Restrike capability. If you are firing the gun normally you will never notice a difference, as during normal operation the Taurus Millennium series of guns works in Single Action. You load the mag, manually pull the slide to load the first round, then every time you pull the trigger the gun fires. If you pull the trigger and the gun does not fire (either dud round or dry firing), you would have to manually pull the slide back about ½” to recock the gun before you could try to fire again.

All my SA/DA triggers have a DA/Restrike capability that works just like the factory trigger, if you get a round fail to fire, or dry fire the gun, it will drop into DA/Restrike mode and you can try to fire again. They have about 70% of the travel distance of the stock G2C trigger. So longer than the SAO travel, but still shorter than the stock trigger.

Do you have a personal preference between the SAO and SA/DA triggers?

Personally I prefer the SAO triggers, as I am a big believer in the tap/rack method of solving round issues, and the DA/restrike in these guns is inherently not very dependable without substantially stiffer than stock striker springs. However, some people prefer to have the restrike function, which is why I supply the SA/DA triggers. 

What is the difference between the different models of triggers (Curve, Slight Curve, Standard, Straight, Pseudo Backstrap)?

​Besides the look and the type of trigger face, they all move where the trigger face breaks forward in about 1/8” increments from the stock trigger. From closest to stock (smallest hands) to furthest forward (largest hands) they go: Curve>Slight Curve=Standard>Straight>Pseudo Backstrap.


They also have different face styles:

-The Curve is flat left to right and has a relatively deep curve going top to bottom.

-The Slight Curve is flat left to right and has a relatively shallow curve going top to bottom.

-The Standard is exactly like the Slight Curve, except the sides and the bottom are heavily rounded giving it more of a traditional trigger face feel, which some people find more comfortable during extended range sessions.

-The Straight is completely flat left to right and top to bottom

-The Pseudo Backstrap has a relatively deep curve running top to bottom, and has rounded sides.


Why don't you make the Straight and the Pseudo Backstrap in SA/DA?

Both the SAO Pseudo Backstrap and SAO Straight come forward quite a ways and have what I would consider to be the minimum comfortable clearance between the trigger face and trigger guard when all the way forward. In order to get these triggers to function as SA/DA they would have to come even further forward, which would not allow enough room inside the trigger guard.  

Which trigger should I choose?

If you have small hands and like where the stock trigger breaks, the Curve is a good choice.

If you have larger hands/longer fingers and feel like the stock trigger face to backstrap distance is so short that want the trigger face as far forward as it can go, the Pseudo Backstrap is your ticket. But as with all things there is a trade-off there, as the trigger face for the Pseudo Backstrap comes close to the trigger guard, so I wouldn't use that trigger if you plan to shoot with bulky gloves.


The Straight also comes forward quite a ways, although not quite as far as the Pseudo Backstrap.

The Slight Curve and Standard are in the middle range and all work well with average sized hands. 

If you are just not sure, or multiple people may be using the gun, my best general use trigger that seems to work for everyone is the Standard. If I had been in charge of the trigger for the production gun, that is the trigger they would have all left the factory with. ​

Do I need any parts besides the trigger to do the install?

For the G2 variants and 709 Slims, all you need is one of my triggers and the tools discussed in the Install Instructions video. The exception to this is the G3, which also requires a G2C style trigger spring to work with my triggers.


While my trigger springs are not required for install in the G2 variants and 709 Slims, I do recommend them.  

Do your triggers work with with the Taurus G3?​

My existing triggers work with the Taurus G3, however, they also require a G2 variant style trigger spring, as the stock G3 spring is completely different and will not work with my triggers. I have packages that include a trigger + trigger spring for each of my trigger types that are for the G3.

For the G2 variants and 709 slim these spring + trigger packages are optional, but recommended.

Do your triggers with with Taurus 709 Slim guns?​

​I do not list the 709 Slim guns as compatible with my triggers, as I don't have a 709 Slim to test with, but according to feedback from customers who have tried it, all my triggers do work in the 709/740 slim guns, however the triggers may require a modification. 

Taurus made several variants of the 709 Slim, and probably several 740 variants as well, and at least one of them has a smaller than normal trigger guard. If you have one of these smaller trigger guard versions of the 709 Slim and install one of my triggers, you may have to sand or file down the bottom of the trigger to clear the smaller trigger guard, then possibly touch up the bottom of the trigger, which a permanent black Sharpie marker does a decent job at.



Do I need one of your trigger springs if I am installing one of your triggers in a G2 variant or the 709 Slim?​

No, my trigger springs are optional in any of the G2 variants or the 709 Slim, but I do recommend them. 

Why do you only have trigger springs that are 20% stiffer than the stock trigger spring? Shouldn't performance trigger springs be lighter than the stock trigger spring?

Many gun models can safely use a weaker than stock trigger spring to lighten the trigger pull. However, in these Taurus G2 variant/G3/709 guns the trigger spring does a lot more than just return the trigger forward, so having a stiffer trigger spring actively helps with the function and reliability of the gun.

In these guns the trigger spring is what actively supports the entire trigger bar and presses it upwards into the rear sear cage, which is how the trigger interacts with the sear and how the firing and reset functions. The trigger bar snapping upwards firmly is what gives you a good audible/tactile reset. In mild cases of trigger bar sagging the trigger reset wont be detectable, or the reset may be undependable, in extreme cases, the gun simply wont fire at all. 

That trigger spring has a tough job too, because it has a very narrow grip spread on the very front of the bar, and then has to support the relatively long run all the way to the back of the trigger bar where it interacts with the rear sear. 

The Taurus stock trigger springs are usually barely sufficient as long as everything is working optimally, but even in dead stock guns I have had multiple people email me for assistance with problem solving trigger reset issues.  Almost always these issues lead back to the stock trigger spring being too weak to effectively support the trigger bar, usually due to extra friction caused either by contact with the flexible polymer frame, from extra friction caused by even small amounts of foreign material, or even from running the gun relatively dry.

So while my stiffer trigger spring is optional with the G2 variants and 709 Slims, I do recommend them for reliability reasons.

Do you do trigger installs?

​Generally I encourage people to try to install it themselves if they feel comfortable doing so. I have video instructions on the "Installation Instructions" page, and if you get stuck, shoot me an email to and I will gladly answer any questions you may have.

That being said I do sometimes do installs upon request if I have time. If you really need a trigger install, send me an email at

​Why dont you keep the stock trigger safety?

​The stock trigger safety on G2C and older guns is a poor design the relies on a piece of nylon being bonded to a piece of steel via a butt joint, it is unreliable, breaks easily, and tends to catch, especially if you have any sideways pressure or use it in very cold weather. 

There are plenty of new guns that come from the factory with the same safety setup (manual thumb safety plus internal striker block safety) that these guns have with one of my triggers, so personally I feel very comfortable using and carrying the gun without the poorly designed stock trigger safety.

Is the gun drop safe with your triggers?


The short answer to this is my triggers are drop safe and I have verified this personally.

How can the gun be drop safe without a trigger safety?

The longer answer is there are basically two forms of drop safety depending on which direction you drop a gun. 

The original drop safety concern was done with the gun pointed some variety of muzzle down, where the striker/firing pin could slam into a round when the gun hit the ground with enough force to ignite a round without the trigger action ever being released. This could happen if you tried to holster the gun and missed. The answer to this type of drop safety is having a striker block, which the gun has and which works exactly the same with my trigger or the factory trigger. 

The second type of drop safety that has seen more attention recently is the kind the Sig P320 made famous, where if you dropped a gun backwards with a trigger that has enough physical mass, a light enough action, and no trigger safety, the trigger could keep moving backwards after the gun hit the ground and release the action as if you had pulled the trigger. 

Sig fixed this issue on the P320 by switching from heavy metal triggers, to metal triggers with less mass. My triggers are made of strong, lightweight nylon polymer and weigh right around 0.1OZ. As you might imagine, even not factoring in friction, or how the trigger is anchored on one side for the leverage point, a 0.1OZ trigger just cannot generate the ~5lbs of force it takes to release the trigger action in one of these guns when dropped from a height that would not also completely destroy the gun, at which point all bets are off with drop safety. 

I have personally verified this by dropping my PT111 G2 with my original SAO Slight Curve trigger backwards from a height of 4 feet onto concrete 40+ times and did not once have the action release. I later dropped my G2C with my Pseudo Backstrap trigger with a primer only round loaded into the gun from a height of 4-5 feet 10 times without the primer ever igniting, then verified the primer worked by firing of at the end of the test.

Does installing your trigger void the warranty?

Usually modifying anything voids the warranty, so I would say to assume it would be voided just to be cautious, but in reality I have had several customers who just reinstalled their factory triggers before sending the gun back to Taurus for other issues, and Taurus fixed the gun and returned it, then they reinstalled my trigger when they got the gun back.

I even had one individual who took the gun apart, could not get it back together, and shipped it back to Taurus in pieces before contacting me (I would have told him to ship it to me), and he did not even include the factory trigger, just my trigger. According to him Taurus just charged him $20-30 to replace the missing parts, reassemble the gun to factory original, and ship it back to him, and did not say anything about voiding his warranty.

So while Taurus could be hard-nosed about it, their current policy seems pretty relaxed in actual application.

bottom of page